Monday, 11 June 2012

Hobson Moor Quarry

Click on photo for full-size version: Photograph © Karl & Ali.

According to UK Climbing Hobson Moor Quarry is
A pleasant (for a quarry!) climbing ground with easy access and good 'crack' with the locals. Mostly good rock on the right side of vertical! Routes mainly VS and above approx 15 - 20m long. Some of the harder routes are equipped with pegs as sport routes. Best climbs are Crew's Route (VS 4c), Parker's Eliminate (HVS 5a), Tighe's Arete (E1 5a), Great Expectations (E3 6a), Fingertip Control and Hobson's Choice (both E5 6b).

The low level traverse is a classic
Karl & Ali were there recently and Karl told me
I've only been to Hobson Moor once before when it was cold, damp and too wet for serious climbing.

If you can overlook the litter, broken glass and graffiti then there are some good climbs there. I quite like the style of climbing found in these gritstone quarries - edges and protection tend to be good whereas natural grit is often on rounded holds. Most of the other climbers in there were top-roping, a style of climbing where the rope is always above the climber and so perfectly safe.

It's a bit like shooting fish in a barrel though and calling it angling. Proper climbing is about tackling the climb as a lead on the 'sharp' end of the rope - getting up and protecting yourself as you ascend with whatever you can carry on your harness and fit into the cracks.

While we were there a couple of young families were getting ready for a barbie with portable generator and sound system so it was time for us to move on down to the Peak!

See a closer view of the "graffiti" on Hyde Daily Photo.


  1. I think I'll stay on the ground ...

  2. Great post and info. Your photo certainly makes it look like an attractive venue though.


Search This Blog